In Search of Moose, We Found the Stars: A Northeast Kingdom Trip
- Corey Stottlemyer
- Jul 13
- 4 min read
If you follow the news in Vermont, you know that the state has been hit by major flash floods during the same time over the last three years. Just last week, Caledonia County in the Northeast Kingdom saw some of the heaviest damage. I had planned to share this story about my family’s trip to the upper northeast corner of the state a year after the flooding in 2024. As extreme weather events increase across the country, it is important to remember the communities affected and to appreciate the selfless volunteers, dedicated public servants, and hard-working contractors who keep showing up to help.
In August 2022, my kids and I went looking to explore a new part of Vermont to us. After a few days around Manchester, we pointed the van north towards Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom, drawn by places with names like Island Pond and the Nulhegan River.
I found a cabin near Brunswick in the Northeast Kingdom that was less than 20 miles south of the Canadian border and less than ten miles west of the Connecticut River, which is the border between Vermont and New Hampshire.
The Journey North
Adding in a few stops, the trip from Manchester to the cabin was just under 200 miles and was estimated to take four and a half hours. We set out in the morning and headed north making stops in Warren, Waitsfield, and East Montpelier. It was a cooler than usual August day and was raining off and on. We were more than an hour or so away from the cabin and the kids started to look for a place to eat. Liberty identified the Fox Market off Route 2. At this point, it was raining hard. We ran into the store. My kids instantly connected with the place, which proudly displayed its support for the LGBTQIA+ community. We were all impressed with the quality and flavor of the food.
By the time we had passed through Island Pond, it was so dark, and the temperature was falling. I had the address in the GPS, which only showed me a range of numbers rather than a specific number. I knew we were getting close, but also increasingly remote. I started to think of the things that could go wrong including losing cell reception or a moose stepping out on to the road. It is one thing to be lost during the day, but another at night. I started to look at the numbers on mailboxes to see how close we were. As we continued, we saw signs about watching out for moose as well as snowmobile trails. (At least we didn’t have to worry about those in August.)
The Cabin Arrival
We found the cabin and parked off the road. We used our flashlights to make it to the door and get inside. It was more spacious than it looked in the photos and we turned on the lights and unpacked the van. It was dark and chilly for an August evening. The kids went to bed and I continued to explore until I found a logbook of the previous people who have stayed at the house. There were people who had come on multi-week science expeditions cataloging native species. There were friends on hunting trips. Couples getting away for a hiking trip. And, families like us exploring somewhere new.
The people wrote about hiking the Nulhegan River Trail, visiting Island Pond, and getting food and supplies at Kingdom Market. They mentioned places to eat like Essex House and Tavern. People shared lists of all kinds of flora and fauna they had seen. The one common thread among all the comments was sharing whether they saw a moose. The majority had not, but a fair number had so I was even more optimistic.
We had planned to venture out further, but we opted to stay local. I let the kids sleep in and then we headed to Island Pond for some provisions. In the light, we could see a small, very picturesque town.
The Trail
After we returned, we headed down the road to the start of the Nulhegan River Trail, which is a one-mile loop and lots of fun. We followed the signs and walked down to the river. It was beautiful. There were lots of stones to jump on and we saw a railroad bridge not far away. As we started to climb back up we noticed the mountains to the north in what we knew must be Canada. As we reached the end of the path, we could look out over the mountains. We saw a hawk going back and forth. It was another beautiful sight to see in this remote place.
The Night Sky
That evening after dinner, we all worked to make a fire in the fire pit and sat around just talking, telling jokes and stories. We were keeping an eye on the weather. Fortunately, the sky was clear.
After the fire went out and the sky was dark, we placed some blankets we had brought on the grass and laid down to do some stargazing. Truly, there was no ambient light, which is so unfamiliar for people from Maryland. Occasionally we would hear a vehicle drive by on the road, but that was it.
We could see the stars as clear as you can on a summer night. We pointed out a few constellations and the North Star. After our eyes fully adjusted to the darkness, we could see the shadow of the Milky Way. The kids and I looked at the stars, barely speaking. It was the kind of night that slows time. I felt small, but also very aware of my connection to the Earth. Cade, Liberty, and I were thankful for that moment.
The next day, as the kids were still sleeping, I made our entry in the logbook. We didn’t see a moose, but we had a memorable time none of us will soon forget. We packed up the van and headed south. It would be a more than 600-mile trip back to Frederick, MD. Yes, we may have taken the long way, but that is where the roads led.
